Bali Part 1: Sarong, Tolong

Welcome to a two part series on Hobbs Nobbin’ adventures through Bali, Indonesia.  This three week journey consisted of three stops with a focus of yoga at each location, BUT there is so much more to discuss than the status of my downward dog.  If you are interested in my downward dog capabilities, please tune into the second part of the two part series.  Part one, lays out my travel highlights and suggestions if you find yourself journeying to smiling Bali, Indonesia.   

Stop One: Seminyak, Bali

Imagine Rodeo Drive, meets Australian hipster, meets Hindu temple.  Now you are walking the streets of Seminyak, which is located just north of Kuta and Legion in the southern tip of the island, Bali.  This area is also very conveniently located to the Denpasar airport...which is why this is stop one on this Hobbs Nobbin' Balinese adventure. From my opening sentence, you hopefully detect Seminyak’s convergence into the Western culture and the conveniences that come along with that.  This transformation into a Western culture hub has been largely influenced by the demand created by the Australian’s choosing this location as a top vacation destination.  

While Seminyak was not the Bali I had dreamt of, it was the perfect starting point to get my Balinese dancing legs underneath me.  I might have taken the Western luxuries a bit too far by spoiling myself with scrumptious dining experiences, but you don’t travel the world and neglect yourself a few treats! (At least, that is not my style.) So, if you find yourself strolling through Seminyak, do as an Australian Hipster would do, and treat yourself to a few good dinners as well as the local scene:

• Must Eat (splurge): Potato Head.  There are two sides to this restaurant/beach club, Asian Fusion and Western.  Asian Fusion all the way! 
• Must Eat (budget): Baku Dapa Warung.  Cheap Indonesian goodness.  Hint: most warungs are sure to have something you like, and are guaranteed to be very cheap.  
• Caffeine Fix: The Coffee House.  Because sometimes you just need a proper soy latte.  They are also rumored to have the best red velvet cake in Indo?   
• Must See: Ulu Watu Temple.  Breathtaking Hindu Temple lining the dramatic cliffs along the Indian Ocean on the Bukit Peninsula. A proper sarong is needed to enter any Hindu temple, and while most places will provide them it is easiest to just come with your own. While you are there check out Ulu’s mesmerizing surf break...and the hour long single file line to get down to the surf.

I passed on waiting in line to go to the beach...  

• Downward Dog: Prana Yoga.  Small class atmosphere set in a geourgeous spa/temple atmosphere. 

Just a few other tips of the Seminyak travel trade: The beach is sub-par due to the pollution, but it will do for a good sun bathing or easy surf session. Traffic is CRAZY. To get around, the easiest thing to do would be hiring a driver, but if you are comfortable weaving in and out of traffic rent a scooter.  Last, but not least, Seminyak/Kuta/Legion would best be experienced when in a party mood, not as a solo traveler on a yoga journey.  

Stop Two: Ubud, Bali

Rice Patties and roosters and yoga, oh my! I now have a special love affair with Ubud, and its beautiful, creative spirit.  I spent 11 lovely days here, each at the legendary Yoga Barn.  Even if you are not an aspiring yogi master, this is a very special place to come and play with yoga.  Remember to check out Part Two for more yoga inspiration!

Go ahead, and erase the image that Elizabeth Gilbert and Julia Roberts created in Eat, Pray, Love...especially the fantasy of cruising around rice fields with a straw hat.  Elizabeth Gilbert found love in Ubud over six years ago, and the publicity from that publication/movie combined with the lapse of time from the 2002 Indonesian bombings,  has left Ubud in a tourism boom.  Turn that frown upside down though! A nice long stroll through stacked rice fields is on the menu, including sitting down to a secluded organic lunch amidst the rice fields at Sari Organik.  Feel better now?  

Ubud is best experienced, at least for the Hobbs Nobbin’ adventurer, on foot, with a giant water bottle and an open mind. By just walking around, you can find beautiful hand crafted gems, secret gardens with inspiring statues, a group of local young artist wanting to discuss the night’s happenings, the best freshly made juice this side of the equator and creepy evolved monkeys. So, get out of bed (the roosters will not permit sleeping anyhow) and put on your walking shoes!

• Where to Stay: Wena Homestay.  The top room to be precise. An amazing palace, with hot water and free wifi around $20 a night. This is the place that turned my frown upside down, when I was sad to not find a quiet city among rice fields.   
• Must Eat: Saya Warung.  Honestly my favorite restaurant in Bali.  Located on Goutama in front of Wena Homestay is the tiniest little joint run by a one man show, and has the best and most fresh ingredients a gal could ask for.  My ordering preference was to ask the one man show what dishes he has ingredients for, and patiently await a masterpiece. Of course I enjoyed a Bintang or two while waiting.  

Such a charming little joint

• *Caffeine Fix: Bar Luna or Casa Luna. This was where most of my days began.  They have a fantastic breakfast menu and of course, my beloved soy latte.  Bar Luna is located on Goutama and Casa Luna is located on the West side of Ubud’s main street, Jl Raya Ubud.  
• *Best Educational Experience: Casa Luna Cooking School. Next to my yoga practice, this was my favorite activity in Bali.  The class teaches you not only the Balinese style of cooking, but their cultural traditions and a bit of history.  Note: try not to loose the detailed cook book, like me ;)

Ingredients for Banana Leaf Steamed Fish, Fish Curry and Balinese 'hot sauce'

• Must Do: Elephant Sanctuary.  Why in the world would you not want to ride an elephant?  Granted I was surrounded by honeymooners and families (a solo traveler's worst nightmare), but Lady Irum was completely worth it. 

Lady Irum, what a pretty gal.

• Downward Dog: Yoga Barn.  This place is a total game changer.  Get ready to fall in love with yoga and/or to take your practice further than you imagined. Carlos is always nice to watch instruct as well...

Can I get a Namaste? 

• Must Walk Down: Bisma Street, same street as the cooking school at the west end of town. Be sure to check out the Adi’s Art Gallery, just a few doors down from the cooking school. 
• Monkey Business: Sacred Monkey Forrest.  An enchanted forrest with a bit of an Indiana Jones vibe.  Beware of these creepy monkeys though, they are way too accustomed to sharing their space with humans, and in my opinion just a bit too evolved.  I swear they were staring at me and plotting my murder, and the different scenarios in which to accomplish their goal. 

*Casa Luna, Bar Luna, Casa Luna Cooking School, Honeymoon Guesthouses and a few other Ubud gems are all owned by Australian chef, Janet de Neefe.  She started forming her empire in the 70’s, and has formed a lovely collection of establishments that are all worth checking out.  I plan to take mi madre back to Ubud, and will stay at the Honeymoon Guesthouse for part of it...as well as Wena Homestay of course!

Stop 3: Nusa Lembongan

Never judge a book by it’s cover. Did your mom drill that into your head as well?  Well I had a lapse of judgement, and accidentally judged this charming island wrong on my first day.  I blame the lingering, pungent seaweed farming aroma for clouding my judgement. After my 10 days here, I completely reshaped my impression into the happy Hindu hippy island of the South East Asia Pacific. 

Get past the seaweed farming, which is interesting, and enjoy the chill vibe.  It took me a day to unwind from the bustling streets of Ubud, but after an exploring long run  and a nap in my hammock, Nusa Lembongan and I got along fantastically.  Another welcomed change, was a few great friend finds.  Prior to Nusa Lembongan, I had concentrated on self reflection but was starting to get a bit anxious for some Hobbs Nobbin' social time.  My heart was happy to find a great group of friends to share my time and experiences with.  I highly recommend stepping out of busy Bali, and checking out this peaceful oasis.    

• Where to Stay: Secret Garden, one of those places that people come to, and somehow never leave.  The result is a great community of travelers who are really into diving and yoga, so both activities are available on the premises.  There are a few nicer places I would not have minded staying at, but the vibe is pretty magical here. Oh, and the pool and hammock combo was what I like to call heaven. 
• Must Eat (splurge): The Beach Club at Sandy Bay.  This is THE spot to watch sunset on the island, and you are literally dining on the sand! My friend and I treated ourselves on my last night in Lembongan. 

Justine and I enjoying our primetime sunset spot

• Party Time: Blue Corner Bar.  Friday nights are the big night.  This is the only time I really hit the town, but even that seems like a large statement for the little island vibe. 
• Caffeine Fix: The Deck, way overpriced, but you know how I need my soy latte fix.
• Downward Dog: Yoga Shack.  This circular open air studio is completely made of bamboo! *Same property as Secret Garden.

Justine, Alfred and I basking in our yoga high

• Must Do: Sun bathe at each of the lovely quaint beaches. Lembongan is a sleepy island, so give in and take a nap on the beach :). 
• Must Explore: Nusa Penida.  This is the largest of the three Nusa islands positioned off of Bali.  Be sure to check out the cave temple, Pura Goa Giri Putra.  There is an extensive stair climb to the entrance of the cave, come prepared with a minimum of 30,000 rupiah donation and get ready to squeeze into this underworld Hindu Temple.  I was also fortunate enough to stumble upon, Atuh Beach.  What a gold mine of a find, but like most gold mines...I can’t exactly tell you how to get there.  There is a major hike/rock climb to get down to it, and the rock formation off the coast can apparently be climbed at low tide.  

Agus, my local friend, and I struck gold when we found this beach.

Bali is a destination I had my heart set on for a few years, and I am so happy I was allowed the opportunity to explore it's charm.  Originally I had planned to spend a month traipsing through Indonesia.  The trip quickly turned into a 3 week, when I realized I needed/wanted to get back to the Gold Coast and start my next Hobbs Nobbin' adventure with my German. Tune into the next post for a deeper insight into my Balinese exploration, and a few more words about me and this German man...